We are delighted to introduce the latest member of our bespoke shirt cutting team. Hailing from Brazil, Lizandra Cardoni came to the UK over a decade ago with the clear ambition of training to be a shirt cutter and tailor. Her perseverance paid off, and after gaining a degree in bespoke tailoring and a decade of technical training that included a mentorship with Turnbull & Asser Head Cutter, David Gale, she has progressed through the ranks from apprentice to fully-fledged cutter and pattern maker at some of Jermyn Street’s most revered shirtmaking names. With such a solid curriculum, we are thrilled to add her to Budd’s bespoke team.
Lizandra works full-time alongside our Head Cutter, John Butcher and Senior Cutter, Darren Tiernan. Between them they have almost a century of shirt cutting experience. Joining a team with such a rich and distinguished heritage can be an overwhelming prospect, but Lizandra has fitted in like a well-cut shirt, with both John and Darren welcoming her in and sharing their experiences and learnings.
Favourite menswear looks?
I’ve always had an appreciation for classic pieces, and one of my favourite looks is a sharp blue shirt. It’s such a reliable choice for both formal and semi-formal occasions. I particularly love how Bill Nighy wears his; he captures refined yet effortless style.
Source: GQ Magazine. Photography: Neil Mockford.
Style icon?
It is hard to limit myself to one specific person, but in terms of today’s personalities, again, Nighy’s timeless style always stands out. Beyond him, I respect the styles of Jeremy Allen White, Paul Mescal, Austin Butler, and Pedro Pascal. Looking back in time, classic Western shirts and Al Pacino’s look in 70s’ films continue to inspire me.
Biggest challenges when moving to the UK?
When I first moved to the UK, it was a period of complete reinvention. Not only was I transitioning careers, but I was also adapting to a new culture and language. It was tough for the first three months, but I adapted quickly, which felt like a positive sign.
What do you miss about Brazil? Favourite things about the UK?
I definitely miss my family, friends, and the freshness of the food in Brazil. That said, the UK feels like home now. It’s where I discovered my passion for tailoring and creating beautiful garments. For the foreseeable future, I don’t see myself living anywhere else.
Was your training in Brazil helpful, or did you start from scratch in the UK?
Before fashion, I spent 10 years in marketing and advertising in São Paulo. I have worked for big companies like Santander and McCann Erickson Brazil.
That experience laid a great foundation for me. I used to design and sell white shirts made by a local pattern cutter and factory to my colleagues directly from my desk at the agency, which is when I realized that fashion, particularly shirt-making, was my true calling and I needed to learn how to make the shirts myself. So, I made a decision and moved to the UK to earn my BA in Bespoke Tailoring, and gain my technical training. In hindsight, the journey has been remarkable, and I’m grateful I took that leap.
Biggest learnings as a bespoke cutter?
Understanding that every customer’s body shape and needs are different has been crucial. The beauty of bespoke is in the personalization, and the approach has to be tailored specifically for each individual.
What do you like about men’s and women’s bespoke tailoring?
I love the endless possibilities that bespoke offers. It’s a collaborative creative process—understanding the client’s brief and then working with them to create something unique. It reminds me a lot of my work in advertising, where every campaign was tailored to fit the client.
Favourite or proudest professional moment?
My career change from advertising to tailoring has been my most defining moment.
Additionally, making shirts for Sir Sam Mendes during the 1917 film tour and for Alex Kapranos of Franz Ferdinand were standout moments because they are both artists I admire deeply.
Favourite cloth or shirt to cut?
I’m currently obsessed with a merino wool fabric that I recently discovered and Italian denims. Having said that, I’m a minimalist at heart, so nothing beats cutting a beautiful white poplin. Interestingly, despite being an uncommon opinion in the trade, I really enjoy cutting silk shirts as well.
Most unusual order?
One of the more unique requests I’ve received was for a cigar pocket in a linen overshirt.
What has surprised you most about working at Budd so far?
The long heritage and the sheer size of the customer base and the volume of orders.
What excites me most is that every order is still cut in-house above the store, maintaining the craft’s authenticity.
What are you excited about with joining Budd?
I’m thrilled to work with such a talented team of cutters. Budd’s rich heritage offers a great foundation, and I look forward to blending traditional skills with more contemporary designs.
Tea break tipple?
Not for a tea break, but I’m really into Margaritas and Gin and Tonics at the moment, but on a hot day, I love an Asahi beer paired with my favourite cuisine—Japanese.
Approach to shirt cutting for a new customer?
For each new customer, I approach it as a collaborative process, really focusing on understanding their style and needs to ensure their personality shines through in the final garment. I do like a clean silhouette specially at cross chest and biceps, I‘m not a fan of oversized arms and excess fabric where it shouldn’t be. I will also avoid putting darts in my shirts unless it is essential or a specific customer body shape.
Favourite Budd items?
I think Budd’s scarf collection is underrated. There are at least three designs I’m eyeing already!
Pet hates in menswear?
I’m not a fan of contrast collars or cuffs on shirts, however as a Bespoke Cutter will happily accommodate a customer’s requests!
Additionally, I believe good shoes and socks are critical and should never be overlooked.
Back to your Sao Paolo roots, where would you recommend visitors go when staying the city?
I would be remiss not to recommend my brother’s Jazz Bar called Whiplash, located in Jardins, a really lovely neighbourhood. I also highly recommend a trip to a restaurant named D.O.M which is run by an amazing Brazilian chef.
What do you miss creature comfort wise?
I miss Pao de Queijo (Brazilian cheese bread) and all the fresh juice houses found in every corner of Brazil.