What makes a Budd Shirt?
Beyond our bespoke and made to measure shirts, Budd has produced ready to wear shirts for over 75 years. Our classic fit shirts represent the quintessential English shirt and are cut in traditional Jermyn Street style, a great and comfortable fit for the more robust or substantial gentlemen. We introduced tailored fit shirts for trimmer, more athletic builds into our repertoire in 2012, revising the block a little in 2020. Having cut over 30,000 individual bespoke patterns over the years, we really are experts in what we do.
A Budd shirt feels extremely easy to wear. You instantly know that you are wearing something that has been meticulously cut and sewn together and benefit from the luxury of a beautiful cloth against your skin. Decades of expertise have gone into crafting each shirt, our experience guaranteeing comfort and elegance in equal measure. We are a cornerstone of Mayfair's famous bespoke community and are the go-to recommendation for the tailoring houses of Savile Row and beyond.
"It's a funny thing about life; if you refuse to accept anything but the best, you very often get it."
W. Somerset Maugham
What are the signs of a good quality shirt?
Accordingly to our very own veteran shirt expert, Andrew Rowley, how a shirt washes, irons and wears is the best indicator of how good a shirt is. Our shirts are built to last and will withstand regular laundering and ironing. They boast the finest quality cottons from Europe’s premier mills and single needle stitching throughout. Your Budd shirt will soften up beautifully. Others will not soften as well.
Ensuring that our cloths are the best they can be is imperative and influences how the shirt will come together. Quality yarns and sophisticated weaving techniques will ensure smooth handle, be easier to work with and sew together and respond favourably to multiple washes and wears. Your shirt will also better withstand the rigours of the day and feel more comfortable too.
"How a shirt washes, irons and wears is the best indicator of how good a shirt is."
Store Manager, Andrew Rowley
Quality of make
Our ready to wear shirts are made in the same way as our bespoke shirts. The way we make and apply our collars is unique and follows a traditional technique, first passed to us by Webster Brothers almost a century ago. All of our shirts are hand cut using shears. This limits the number of shirts that we are able to cut at once. This is in contrast to the more industrial and less labour intensive approach of using a band-knife to cut shirts out in bulk. We love to preserve tradition and keep our hands busy.
Each of our shirts are made by just one member of our shirt making team, who will make the shirt from beginning to end. This ensures continuity throughout and an emotional connection with each shirt. In the case of our bespoke shirts, our shirt makers quickly learn the shape and needs of their individual customers. Our staff are trained in-house, with some members of our team being second and third generation into the company. Gwen and Di head up our workrooms and between them boast over eighty years of experience.
Our ready to wear shirts are made in the same way as our bespoke shirts.
The anatomy of our shirts:
The Building Blocks
There are over 36 individual parts to our shirts, not including buttons.
The Stitching
Single needle stitching throughout - this creates a more refined look and greater strength and requires double the workmanship and control.
The Length
Our shirts are cut a little longer. We don’t skimp on cloth. Your shirt will remain in place whilst you wear it.
Collar Stays
The pockets for collar stays is the first stage of the collar to be prepared. Stays aren’t essential but do assist.
The Collar
A soft, hand-turned collar with floating lining. Our collars are attached with a double row of stitching that help it stand perfectly, with or without a tie. Most are cut with our classic Budd, forward collar or our semi-spread collar, known as the Bank collar.
The Yoke
A straight, split yoke. Provides strength, clean lines and added ease of movement for greater comfort.
The Buttons
Mother of Pearl buttons are ethically sourced and sustainable.
The Sleeves
Perfect Sleeve Pitch - we hand-set each shirt sleeve to ensure that it hangs well and wears comfortably, without any uncomfortable pulling.
Hidden Details
A concealed shoulder tuck allows for sleeves to be lengthened whilst generously cut sleeves ensure freedom of movement and longevity, especially at the elbow.
The Cuffs
They anchor the sleeve and make putting your shirt on and off much easier! Our cuffs have a floating interlining to ensure structure. Our ready to wear shirts come with either double or button cuffs, however, in our made to measure service we offer six different options, and limitless choice in bespoke.
Little Extras
Cuff tucks allow for sleeves to be lengthened.
The Gauntlet, the open piece of sleeve that runs above the cuff, helps in rolling your sleeves up and also allows you to open the cuff flat for easy ironing.
The Placket
A distinct hand-folded and lined placket that is a little wider than standard shirts. Ensures strength and structure.
Gusset
We don’t include a gusset on our RTW shirts. The single needle stitching and construction means that our shirts do not need reinforcement.
